Start up 'Far from the maddening crowd' a few pitches, to where the angle kicks back, then at the first opportunity, break up the right hand wall, aiming for the obvious ice hose spilling down the steep cliffs near the summit. Climb initially thin curtains of ice to easier angle ground. Continue up past another crux (thin pillar), which on the FA was bypassed by tenuous mixed climbing on the right - with a dry tooling traverse back left to rejoin the gully just above the pillar - then continue up good WI2 - 3 to the base of the hanging crux pillar on the headwall. Mixed climbing to M6 for a few metres on the right, then step left onto the pillar and continue up with angle gradually easing to WI4. The first 10m of this pitch were rope soloed on the first ascent (otherwise ropeless). Continue up steep water ice then steep snow slopes to top out shortly SW of the summit. On FA, Descent was by downclimbing snow slopes/gullies on W face vampire, then walking to Bernard Col and downclimbing the couloir and snow slopes back to the base of Vampire. See NZAJ 2020 for details.
|#||Ewbank||Alpine (Technical)||Alpine (Commitment)||Alpine (Mt Cook)||Aid||Water Ice||Mixed||Boulder (Hueco)||Length||Bolts||Trad|
V 6 WI5 M6
Ruari Macfarlane, July 27 2020