East Ridge

A schrund extending from bluffs
under the east ridge of Outram
Peak across to an icefall just
south of Schrund Peak can completely
cut off the col between
Outram and Schrund peaks,
but may be negotiable early in
a heavy snow season. Instead,
from Disappointment Saddle
sidle across snow slopes to the col
south-west of Quoin Peak and
traverse the glacier on the northern
side of Schrund Peak, then
follow the rock ridge to the top.
An alternative involves climbing
the broad, crevassed southern
aspects of Schrund Peak and dropping down to the col, and reaching the East Ridge from there. In good conditions this
route offers a good transalpine crossing from the Havelock to the Garden of Eden.