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High Peak, From Vane Stream via Leeb Glacier

Grade
2-
Quality
0
First ascent
Roger Chester, Alan Willis, Bill Mirams (descended to Menace Gap), December 1931 Dave Clark, Philip Castle, Rob Munster (from the Wanganui and Vane Stream), March 1978
Located on
Topo ref
LG

  • P1
  • Alpine (Mt Cook) 2-

Above the Essex flat in Vane Stream, continue on the true left. Go a little way up the Wilberg tributary before climbing the spur between the Wilberg and the stream draining Pt 1811 metres to the 1420-metre contour, then sidle into the Hazard Valley. Climb the snow slope leading to the Dainty Glacier, cross the Dainty to 1880 metres and gain the rock rib north. It is best to descend to the Lornty as soon as is practical. To gain the Leeb Glacier, aim for snow slopesbetween a loose rock pinnacle and a rock bluff extending up to the Divide. From the Leeb, the west ridge of Snow Dome can be accessed at 2240 metres or, more normally, climb snow slopes between Snow Dome and Whitcombe. A schrund usually cuts this slope off later in summer, and other schrunds appear on the ridge itself, but both peaks are otherwise easily accessible.


Comments
UUID
 
3773faef-5015-4df6-9a16-842c06c0f801