High Peak, From Vane Stream via Leeb Glacier

Type: 
Alpine
Reference: 
LG
Pitch(es): 
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
12-0mNo
 

Above the Essex flat in Vane Stream, continue on the true left. Go a little way up the Wilberg
tributary before climbing the spur between the Wilberg and the stream draining Pt 1811 metres
to the 1420-metre contour, then sidle into the Hazard Valley. Climb the snow slope leading
to the Dainty Glacier, cross the Dainty to 1880 metres and gain the rock rib north. It is best
to descend to the Lornty as soon as is practical. To gain the Leeb Glacier, aim for snow slopesbetween a loose rock pinnacle and a rock bluff extending up to the Divide. From the Leeb, the
west ridge of Snow Dome can be accessed at 2240 metres or, more normally, climb snow slopes
between Snow Dome and Whitcombe. A schrund usually cuts this slope off later in summer,
and other schrunds appear on the ridge itself, but both peaks are otherwise easily accessible.

Grade: 
2-
Quality: 
0
Gone: 
0
Length: 
0m
Bolts: 
0
Natural pro: 
0
Ascent: 
Roger Chester, Alan Willis, Bill Mirams (descended to Menace Gap), December 1931 Dave Clark, Philip Castle, Rob Munster (from the Wanganui and Vane Stream), March 1978
UUID: 
3773faef-5015-4df6-9a16-842c06c0f801