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This route starts from Engineer Col and is best gained from Lendenfeld Peak (From Marcel Col). The col can be accessed directly from the Heemskirk Glacier but is sometimes cut off or threatened by icecliffs/avalanches off Tasman. Above Engineer Col, the route usually follows steeper ice gullies to where Syme Ridge joins the North Shoulder. Although the section above the col has changed markedly over the last 15 years it still provides a relatively straightforward route onto the shoulder. The broad North Shoulder eventually narrows into an exhilarating ridge, which leads to the summit. Also used as a descent route.
Marcel Kurz, Harold Porter, Jan 1927 (Descended).