Rome Ridge

Type: 
Alpine
Description: 
The classic Rome Ridge route leads to the Low Peak. The ridge is usually and most readily approached by the Coral Track 300m north of the McGrath Stream bridge. It can also be reached from the upper Bealey Valley, by way of an ugly scree adjacent the Bealey bluffs. Access is also possible from the Crow Valley: usually the Avalanche Peak tramping route is used to gain access to the ridge and the East Crow Glacier. In avalanche free conditions it is possible to gain the glacier directly by climbing out of the valley head, utilising the narrow gut on the true left. Above the tree-line the ridge is easily climbed, though two prominent buttresses can be of some concern in soft or loose snow conditions. There is a prominent gap in the ridge below the Low Peak, this requiring a short exposed pitch (50m) on either side of the ridge. The last buttress on the ridge before the gap can be avoided by sidling on the East Crow Glacier (this bypass is cut by a bergschrund in mid-summer). The gap may also be approached via the Avalanche Peak joining ridge. The first few pitches of the main ridge beyond the gap are steep and loose, with some exposure towards the Goldney Glacier. Once the Low Peak (2212m) is gained, access to the High Peak (2275m) is by continuing along the ridge on easier ground, via the Middle Peak. Middle Peak can be avoided by utilising the Crow neve if it is negotiable. Descent should be made via the Otira Slide (route 6.3).
Reference: 
RR
Pitch(es): 
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
120mNo
Grade: 
2
Quality: 
1.02
Gone: 
0
Length: 
0m
Natural pro: 
0
UUID: 
f20a3513-2cc4-47b5-909c-b35c2c2fff34