Otira Slide

Type: 
Alpine
Reference: 
OS
Pitch(es): 
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
110mNo
 

3 The Otira Slide route to MT ROLLESTON (2275m) is the climbers preferred ascent route to join the Goldney Ridge, and is certainly the most used and quickest descent route. From the Otira Valley car-park follow the walking trail towards the head of the valley. After the foot-bridge the trail is less defined, and the entire area is avalanche prone in winter. It takes about 90 min to reach the base of the Otira Slide icefield. (It is unwise to ascend the slide in darkness because of the high avalanche and rockfall risk in this area. Arrive there at first light if anything!) Climb the ice├×eld on the true-right, aiming for the wide couloir at its head that joins the Goldney Ridge. Climb the ridge rock, or drop onto the head of the Goldney Glacier and regain the ridge. Move away from the ridge crest, instead opting to climb the steep shallow gully that leads directly to Low Peak (2212m). If in doubt aim for the large solitary orange rock jutting out of the face, Low Peak is directly behind it. (Grade. 1+) An alternative route from the Slide, is to climb directly onto the face between Low and Middle Peaks. An obvious steep gully (Hidden Couloir) joins the ridge between these summits. It is avalanche prone, and contains loose rock. It must be frozen! (Grade. 2-) Once Low Peak is gained and if the Crow neve is not too crevassed, head for the col past Middle Peak, gaining the ridge to High Peak from there. Otherwise climb over Middle Peak. Note : The Otira Slide may be descended in winter on downhill/telemark skis. You must be an extremely competent skier, and have good avalanche assessment skills.

Grade: 
1
Quality: 
1.02
Gone: 
0
Length: 
0m
Bolts: 
0
Natural pro: 
0
Ascent: 
December, 1891 by G.E. Mannering, A.M. Ollivier and W.D. Wood utilising the Goldney Ridge.
high peak was made in 1912 by H. Thompson and J. Gilligan via the Otira Valley
UUID: 
84a72cc7-06e0-44d7-b172-2112b2cd41d6