|#||Ewbank||Alpine (Technical)||Alpine (Commitment)||Alpine (Mt Cook)||Aid||Water Ice||Mixed||Boulder (Hueco)||Length||Bolts||Trad|
P1 65 m crux WI4 start up steep snow and ice moving through vertical steps. Belays on rock at left available
Antics (South Face)
A great climb on a prominent snow / ice line visible from near the Breakaway. Approach by dropping down snowslopes from the Breakaway, turning a small rocky spur, and a gaining an easy approach slope to the climb. Alternatively, the climb can easily be accessed by following a dry creekbed just beyond Scotts Biv to where a small promontory overlooks the debris zone from serac avalanches. Gain some height, run the exposed gauntlet at a narrowing and cross over to the true right of the drainage where slopes (exposed to snow avalanche but not serac fall) can be followed to the route. Abseil the route or easy walk off to the Bonar. Attempted by Dave Hiddleston and Anna Gillooly in the 1990s, but Dave took a lead fall and the team retreated (Nick Cradock pers. comm. 2020)
III 5 WI4
Ruari Macfarlane, Maddy Whittaker, Jaz Morris, July 2020.