Ascend the Le Blanc Glacier by surmounting the choked gully at mid-height, and continuing up the snowfield to join the original ascent route. The climb involving over 1700m of height gain, and return can be completed in a long day from the bivvy rock near the mouth of Romping Water. This ridge of rotten rock is quite sensational. It is steep and narrow with a tremendous drop on either side. ... The climb to the summit would have been straightforward though exposed, had the ridge not been partially snowed up. At one point we had to make a nasty detour on to very steep snow-covered rock on the Le Blanc face. We double-roped down the ridge at this point on the way back. We reached the summit at 1.15pm after some careful climbing. It was another wonderful view, this time including the Hopkins Valley. At this hour we did not consider attempting the big task of traversing on to the virgin peak. Time, perhaps, was not the only factor. Earle Riddiford, New Zealand Alpine Journal, 1948.
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Bill Beaven, Norman Hardie, Jim McFarlane, Earle Riddiford, January 1948.