Gormenghast

Type: 
Alpine
Description: 
The South West face of Mt Hopkins is an awesome 900m high wall frowning down on the head of the Richardson Glacier. The stunning face which can be seen in profile from as far away as Dog Kennel corner east of Lake Tekapo, has long been on some climbers minds. Started walking early Wednesday morning. Thursday bivvied beneath the face but didn't look up much. Except once or twice, and had to marvel at my own audacity. This must be the mountain of mountains. And this must be the face of faces. Even that sighting as you come through the MacKenzie country. This distant tower with cloud banner, a sight to captivate any mountain enthusiast surely. Bill McLeod, personal communication 1993. From the Richardson Glacier ascend the rib just right of the ice cliffs to gain the snow shelf. Head left, and up two snow shelves. From the top shelf climb the narrow gully which takes a straight line to the skyline and exit thirty metres west of the summit. Close to the summit the gully fades out then reforms and continues in an appealing thread to the very top.
Pitch(es): 
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
150mNo
Grade: 
5
Quality: 
0
Gone: 
0
Length: 
0m
Bolts: 
0
Natural pro: 
0
Ascent: 
Bill McLeod, July 1993
UUID: 
04254eba-683c-46d1-a2b6-94c413da4d4a