The route of the first, and almost all subsequent ascents. From Faith Col traverse around onto the Hourglass Glacier and then follow the original route on the narrowing ridge to the summit. The climb is most frequently commenced from the Richardson Glacier but parties have also ascended the route beginning from the Dobson, and the Le Blanc Valleys.
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From Faith Col Samuel Turner, Peter Graham, Frank Milne, March 1914
From the Richardson Glacier, A C Dick, J O F Hamilton, 1951