|#||Ewbank||Alpine (Technical)||Alpine (Commitment)||Alpine (Mt Cook)||Aid||Water Ice||Mixed||Boulder (Hueco)||Length||Bolts||Trad|
Free climbed first 100m on first ascent.
Left through mixed terrain to gain steep ice at obvious gully. Belay on right to avoid hang fire.
Steepening ice with M4+ move to exit and belay
Up steep snow/ ice trending left to prominent spur
Up steeping snow/ ice ramp trending right until it steepens and deal to the short vertical and overhanging rock/rime/ ice bulges. Relents to find a good rock bollard belay on spur. Beware loose rock through steep section.
Follow Spur/ ridgeline until it steepens and overhangs. Step left and downclimb or rappel 3-4m
Follow exit gully to reach ridgeline. First ascent party continued to summit of High Peak via the complementary mixed ground (70m) facing north, at approx M4.
On the East Face of Mt Haast, start right of the triangle (Little Big Wall). Best climbed after a good freeze and/ or a cycle of melting to get rid of any hang fire or loose wet avalanche danger. This is a steep solar aspect getting sun for most of the day, hence the name 'Hotline'. This route is as close to spur 3 (as per 2018 guidebook) as possible and is situated between route 11.81 and 11.83.
IV 3+,IV 4 M4,IV 4+ WI3 M4,IV 3+ WI2,IV 5+ M5,IV 3,IV 3
Gavin Lang, Ben Sanford 3rd Sept 2019