Hotline

Type: 
Alpine
Description: 
On the East Face of Mt Haast, start right of the triangle (Little Big Wall). Best climbed after a good freeze and/ or a cycle of melting to get rid of any hang fire or loose wet avalanche danger. This is a steep solar aspect getting sun for most of the day, hence the name 'Hotline'. This route is as close to spur 3 (as per 2018 guidebook) as possible and is situated between route 11.81 and 11.83.
Reference: 
https://www.topomap.co.nz/NZTopoMap/nz26452/Mount-Haast/West-Coast
Pitch(es): 
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
13+IV100mNo
 Free climbed first 100m on first ascent.
24IVM460mNo
 Left through mixed terrain to gain steep ice at obvious gully. Belay on right to avoid hang fire.
34+IVWI3M460mNo
 Steepening ice with M4+ move to exit and belay
43+IVWI255mNo
 Up steep snow/ ice trending left to prominent spur
55+IVM560mNo
 Up steeping snow/ ice ramp trending right until it steepens and deal to the short vertical and overhanging rock/rime/ ice bulges. Relents to find a good rock bollard belay on spur. Beware loose rock through steep section.
63IV70mNo
 Follow Spur/ ridgeline until it steepens and overhangs. Step left and downclimb or rappel 3-4m
73IV40mNo
 Follow exit gully to reach ridgeline. First ascent party continued to summit of High Peak via the complementary mixed ground (70m) facing north, at approx M4.
Grade: 
IV 3+,IV 4 M4,IV 4+ WI3 M4,IV 3+ WI2,IV 5+ M5,IV 3,IV 3
Quality: 
2.01
Gone: 
0
Length: 
445m
Bolts: 
0
Natural pro: 
0
Ascent: 
Gavin Lang, Ben Sanford 3rd Sept 2019
Route Image: 
UUID: 
9c367cb2-4527-4fd2-a2ea-428c6f4d52cf