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From the upper Sheila Glacier head up the rib to the left of Fyfe’s Gut - the narrow couloir directly below the saddle. It is possible to climb Fyfe’s Gut but watch for stonefall. The route comes out above Green Saddle. Ascend rubbishy rock to the summit. A variant near the top involves moving left into a narrow ice couloir which leads to the summit ridge (An alternative route crosses above the icecliffs to the Hicks/Dampier.
Green Saddle Route
Jack Clarke, Tom Fyfe, George Graham (when they climbed Aoraki/Mt Cook).
Bill McLeod, Jul 1984.