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Follow the Moncrieff Col route from Aspiring Flat to reach the snowfield below the col. Traverse north to reach the rib separating the Kitchener and Lucas Glaciers. This rib leads to a steep snowfield below the South Face, which is then climbed by a direct line to the summit. The rock is unpleasantly loose but otherwise not unduly difficult.
This is a very long climb from Aspiring Flat, probably requiring eight to ten hours to the summit, but the reward is a magnificent view. There is a bivvy rock on the Moncrieff Col route. This bivvy is big enough for three people to stay dry in even in the most atrocious conditions.
The South Face.
Martyn Potter, Maurice Conway & Wayne McIlwraith, Jan 1970.