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The most elegant route is up a rounded rib that drops from the summit to the Hooker. From Gardiner Hut climb snow fields and rock ribs keeping an eye out for ice avalanches from cliffs to the right and left. Beware of soft snow slides later in the day in summer.
Hans Leitner, Eberhard von Terzi, Jan 1962
Rob Hall, Steve & Michelle Lassche, Jun 1984. A ‘Baker Saddle East Face’ variant. Adam Darragh, Parish Robbins, summer 1997.