|#||Ewbank||Alpine (Technical)||Alpine (Commitment)||Alpine (Mt Cook)||Aid||Water Ice||Mixed||Boulder (Hueco)||Length||Bolts||Trad|
From Homer Saddle weave along the ridge which can almost border on being alpine enough to require a rope. An exposed traverse under Moir’s Mate leads to good bivvy sites. Cross a narrow band under the Mates Little Brother then out across the slopes running down from the upper cirque to the buttress. Conditions on the bottom half of the buttress tend to be similar to summer with grassy sections leading up to a slab. Traverse down and into a gully on the edge of the West Face. From here the route continues up a series of iced up grooves. Steep rock with ice runnels and good rock pro.
Geoff Gabites, Ken Hyslop, June 1975.