Mt Moir

(27 routes)

Mt Moir contains a wealth of classic rock routes on amazing diorite.


Take the track to Homer Saddle from the tunnel then follow the ridge to Moir for about 45min to an hour. The ridge is very exposed with moderately difficult scrambling - it has been known to reduce climbers to crawling on all fours in places. The ridge breaks into a broad scree slope which descends below the west face of Moir’s Mate.

Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Edit link
Original Route
From the snowfield below the North Face of Belle.
Bill Gordon, Lloyd Warburton, Duncan Wilson, Oct 1953.
North Ridge
wire representing trad
A stunning ridge-climb on large blocks of good rock. The steep step onto Moir’s Mate may require a rope and is often abseiled on the descent.
Bill Gordon, Ralph Miller, Oct 1956.
West Ridge
wire representing trad
A 500m ridge of good rock.
Godfrey Reider, Ron Webster, Dick Wood, March 1959.
South Face 16
For access to the South Face descend round the foot of the West Ridge. Five pitches. The route follows the central rib on medium-angled clean rock.
Don Bogie, Geoff Gabites, 1978.
South Ridge
wire representing trad
For access, descend round the foot of the West Ridge. 16 pitches. Two or three initial step pitches to gain the ridge then excellent rock to the summit.
Richard Price, Conway Powell, 1976.
Craig Jefferies


Type Title Edit link
Face (Alpine) Upper North Face (5 routes)
Wall Moir Slab (6 routes)
Face (Alpine) North Face (9 routes)
Face (Alpine) South-East Face (2 routes)