Te Hamo

Type: 
Rock
Description: 
Named after the toki (adze) the Maori God Tu-te-raki-whanoa used when he hacked up the rock to create the towering cliffs of Milford Sound, this route gains the prominent right-leaning diagonal crack that slashes across the middle of Sinbad Wall, generally getting harder as it goes. Consider the grades provisional. A direct start or linking pitch 2 direct to pitch 5 would be worthwhile additions. Start at a right leading ramp, just left of the bright green splotch, clip a bolt, then start jamming and quest on upwards. The first two pitches were established some time ago by Derek Thatcher and friends, then Te Hamo heads rightwards. Every pitch at least two (2/3) star so whole route given 3 stars. Descent: this climb is continuously steep so tag a second rope from top of pitch 2 to the top of pitch 4. From the top of the route you can back clip pitches 7-5, then use the tag line to double rope rap to the top of pitch 2. A 55m rap from here will land you back on the ground.
Reference: 
1
Pitch(es): 
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
12230m1Yes
 

22, 30m, Excellent jamming up this classic crack pitch. First equipped and climbed by Derek Thatcher & Mayan Smith-Gobat.

22725m3Yes
 

27, 25m, Traverse up and right into corner then span wide tricky moves past first bolt and face climb past two more bolts to belay ledge. First equipped and climbed by Derek Thatcher & Mayan Smith-Gobat.

32427m3Yes
 

24, 27m, Rising traverse. To ease descent, trail a tag line or second rope from here to the top of pitch four.

42527m4Yes
 

25, 27m, Follow bolts on thin flakes, pull through overlap and continue up widening crack to ledge.

52615m5No
 

26, 15m, Short, steep, fun!

62720m2Yes
 

27, 20m, Crank crux between bolts, then attack the crack.

72830m5Yes
 

28, 30m, Dynamic crux; sustained crack to finish

8250mNo
9310mNo
10240mNo
11200mNo
Grade: 
22,27,24,25,26,27,28,25,31,24,20
Quality: 
3
Gone: 
0
Length: 
174m
Bolts: 
23
Natural pro: 
1
Ascent: 
Sefton Priestley, Zachary Orme, Greg Jack; Feb 2018
Route Image: 
UUID: 
4d292f46-6393-4f80-8e4b-3f0cc7c63bda