Reference: 
1
Type: 
Rock
Pitch: 
# Alpine
(Commitment)
Alpine
(Technical)
Alpine
(Mt Cook)
Ewbank Aid Water Ice Mixed Boulder
(Hueco)
Length Bolts Trad
100220030m1Y
 22, 30m, Excellent jamming up this classic crack pitch. First equipped and climbed by Derek Thatcher & Mayan Smith-Gobat.
200270025m3Y
 27, 25m, Traverse up and right into corner then span wide tricky moves past first bolt and face climb past two more bolts to belay ledge. First equipped and climbed by Derek Thatcher & Mayan Smith-Gobat.
300240027m3Y
 24, 27m, Rising traverse. To ease descent, trail a tag line or second rope from here to the top of pitch four.
400250027m4Y
 25, 27m, Follow bolts on thin flakes, pull through overlap and continue up widening crack to ledge.
500260015m5N
 26, 15m, Short, steep, fun!
600270020m2Y
 27, 20m, Crank crux between bolts, then attack the crack.
700280030m5Y
 28, 30m, Dynamic crux; sustained crack to finish
First ascent: 
Sefton Priestley, Zachary Orme, Greg Jack; Feb 2018
Quality: 
3

Named after the toki (adze) the Maori God Tu-te-raki-whanoa used when he hacked up the rock to create the towering cliffs of Milford Sound, this route gains the prominent right-leaning diagonal crack that slashes across the middle of Sinbad Wall, generally getting harder as it goes. Consider the grades provisional.
Feel free to extend this route further, up through the impressive looking headwall, or finish up Weatherspell. A direct start or linking pitch 2 direct to pitch 5 would also be worthwhile additions.

Start at a right leading ramp, just left of the bright green splotch, clip a bolt, then start jamming and quest on upwards. The first two pitches were established some time ago by Derek Thatcher and friends, then Te Hamo heads rightwards. Every pitch at least two (2/3) star so whole route given 3 stars.

Descent: this climb is continuously steep so tag a second rope from top of pitch 2 to the top of pitch 4. From the top of the route you can back clip pitches 7-5, then use the tag line to double rope rap to the top of pitch 2. A 55m rap from here will land you back on the ground.

Route Image: 
Grade: 
22 ,27 ,24 ,25 ,26 ,27 ,28
Length: 
174
Bolts: 
23
Natural pro: 
Natural pro?
Gone: 
No
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