Reference: 
3
Type: 
Rock
Pitch: 
# Alpine
(Commitment)
Alpine
(Technical)
Alpine
(Mt Cook)
Ewbank Aid Water Ice Mixed Boulder
(Hueco)
Length Bolts Trad
10027000m0Y
 Follow a series of overhanging cracks on the right-hand side of the wall; a committing route on immaculate rock.
First ascent: 
Craig Jefferies, Paul Rogers, Jan 2003.
Quality: 
3

1) 21, 25m. Climb the steep clean face behind a large block using the flake crack. Steep moves lead to a hand traverse right, then into a steep left-facing corner.
2) 20, 30m. A grassy groove on the right leads to a left-facing corner flake. Ascend this ‘til the flake leads you across to the obvious left-facing corner; this leads to a big ledge and belay.
3) 23, 20m. Climb the left-leaning crack/layback on fingerlocks and lay-aways using wires and CDs (friends to 2.5) and four bolts to a hanging belay.
4) 27-A2, 20m. The overhanging wall left of the belay leads to a left-leaning corner; mostly bolts with the odd wire and small cam.
5) A2, 15m. Climb the steep wall above the belay past four bolts ‘til easy climbing traverses left to a ledge with a single bolt belay; some wires and small CDs.
6) A1, 35m. The Thunder Bolt Crack. Move left and climb flakes and left-facing corner to a recessed groove. Exit the groove on the right and move up and right to a grassy ledge and belay; full rack of CDs to #4 and wires.
7) A1, 40m. Above the belay is a left-facing corner which steps dramatically towards a roof; take extra wires and CDs to #3.
8) A2+, 10m. A short pitch from the hanging belay, cranking through the roof and steeply up to a more comfortable hanging belay!
9) A3, 15m. The chimney above provides the steepest climbing while breaching the headwall: good to have big CDs and a complete rack.
10) A2, 40m. Stunning clean groove leads to more vertical climbing on Labyrinth-like buckets. Exit the groove then tend right and up, stepping round the arête to a belay ledge on the right; full rack required with CD’s to #4.
11) Unclimbed...possible grade 20. Either move back left and climb the grooved arête to the top or climb the ledge system above the belay, tending right ‘til a shallow corner takes you to easy ground.

Grade: 
27
Length: 
0
Bolts: 
0
Natural pro: 
Natural pro?
Attribution: 
Craig Jefferies
Gone: 
No
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