Type:
Rock
Description:
1) 21, 25m. Climb the steep clean face behind a large block using the flake
crack. Steep moves lead to a hand traverse right, then into a steep
left-facing corner.
2) 20, 30m. A grassy groove on the right leads to a left-facing corner flake.
Ascend this ‘til the flake leads you across to the obvious left-facing
corner; this leads to a big ledge and belay.
3) 23, 20m. Climb the left-leaning crack/layback on fingerlocks and lay-aways
using wires and CDs (friends to 2.5) and four bolts to a hanging belay.
4) 27-A2, 20m. The overhanging wall left of the belay leads to a left-leaning
corner; mostly bolts with the odd wire and small cam.
5) A2, 15m. Climb the steep wall above the belay past four bolts ‘til easy
climbing traverses left to a ledge with a single bolt belay; some wires and
small CDs.
6) A1, 35m. The Thunder Bolt Crack. Move left and climb flakes and
left-facing corner to a recessed groove. Exit the groove on the right and
move up and right to a grassy ledge and belay; full rack of CDs to #4 and
wires.
7) A1, 40m. Above the belay is a left-facing corner which steps dramatically
towards a roof; take extra wires and CDs to #3.
8) A2+, 10m. A short pitch from the hanging belay, cranking through the roof
and steeply up to a more comfortable hanging belay!
9) A3, 15m. The chimney above provides the steepest climbing while breaching
the headwall: good to have big CDs and a complete rack.
10) A2, 40m. Stunning clean groove leads to more vertical climbing on
Labyrinth-like buckets. Exit the groove then tend right and up, stepping
round the arête to a belay ledge on the right; full rack required with
CD’s to #4.
11) Unclimbed...possible grade 20. Either move back left and climb the
grooved arête to the top or climb the ledge system above the belay, tending
right ‘til a shallow corner takes you to easy ground.
Reference:
3
Pitch(es):
# | Ewbank | Alpine (Technical) | Alpine (Commitment) | Alpine (Mt Cook) | Aid | Water Ice | Mixed | Boulder (Hueco) | Length | Bolts | Trad |
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | 27 | 0m | Yes | ||||||||
Follow a series of overhanging cracks on the right-hand side of the wall; a committing route on immaculate rock. |
Grade:
27
Quality:
Gone:
0
Length:
0m
Bolts:
0
Natural pro:
1
Attribution:
Craig Jefferies
Ascent:
Craig Jefferies, Paul Rogers, Jan 2003.
UUID:
b46f322f-f447-40f4-8f28-4f7763cf3ac8