Shadowland

Type: 
Rock
Description: 
1) 21, 25m. Climb the steep clean face behind a large block using the flake crack. Steep moves lead to a hand traverse right, then into a steep left-facing corner. 2) 20, 30m. A grassy groove on the right leads to a left-facing corner flake. Ascend this ‘til the flake leads you across to the obvious left-facing corner; this leads to a big ledge and belay. 3) 23, 20m. Climb the left-leaning crack/layback on fingerlocks and lay-aways using wires and CDs (friends to 2.5) and four bolts to a hanging belay. 4) 27-A2, 20m. The overhanging wall left of the belay leads to a left-leaning corner; mostly bolts with the odd wire and small cam. 5) A2, 15m. Climb the steep wall above the belay past four bolts ‘til easy climbing traverses left to a ledge with a single bolt belay; some wires and small CDs. 6) A1, 35m. The Thunder Bolt Crack. Move left and climb flakes and left-facing corner to a recessed groove. Exit the groove on the right and move up and right to a grassy ledge and belay; full rack of CDs to #4 and wires. 7) A1, 40m. Above the belay is a left-facing corner which steps dramatically towards a roof; take extra wires and CDs to #3. 8) A2+, 10m. A short pitch from the hanging belay, cranking through the roof and steeply up to a more comfortable hanging belay! 9) A3, 15m. The chimney above provides the steepest climbing while breaching the headwall: good to have big CDs and a complete rack. 10) A2, 40m. Stunning clean groove leads to more vertical climbing on Labyrinth-like buckets. Exit the groove then tend right and up, stepping round the arête to a belay ledge on the right; full rack required with CD’s to #4. 11) Unclimbed...possible grade 20. Either move back left and climb the grooved arête to the top or climb the ledge system above the belay, tending right ‘til a shallow corner takes you to easy ground.
Reference: 
3
Pitch(es): 
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
1270mYes
 

Follow a series of overhanging cracks on the right-hand side of the wall; a committing route on immaculate rock.

Grade: 
27
Quality: 
3
Gone: 
0
Length: 
0m
Bolts: 
0
Natural pro: 
1
Attribution: 
Craig Jefferies
Ascent: 
Craig Jefferies, Paul Rogers, Jan 2003.
UUID: 
b46f322f-f447-40f4-8f28-4f7763cf3ac8