|#||Ewbank||Alpine (Technical)||Alpine (Commitment)||Alpine (Mt Cook)||Aid||Water Ice||Mixed||Boulder (Hueco)||Length||Bolts||Trad|
Climb the bolted wall to a ramp then steeply up to belay.
Up the short grassy groove above the belay then follow a steep flake system right, clipping a bolt on Weather Spell, to reach a steep left facing corner. Climb this corner to the 60m ledge, then continue 5m past the Ring bolts to a slightly higher DBA.
Climb pillar then crux move off pinnacle past bolt near arete. Then up corner above to belay.
Spectacular corner and wall above to a belay on a water pocked sloping ledge.
Traverse right then up to belay below overhanging right facing corner.
Steep corner and widening crack. Burly. Cams to BD#4.
Move right, past vegetated corner to featured, exposed face. Up face then back left to step back into corner for the last move. If you place gear at base of the corner extend well on 120cm slings.
Easy right then up steep wall on good but small wires (crux). Consider belaying on ledge below crux (wires) if you want belayer nearer to the leader during the hard moves.
Steep crack left of hanging belay, then back right to 1st bolt. Negotiate the steep bulge on funky chicken heads and slopers, passing three bolts to belay. You may find it easier to head up past the 2nd bolt before going right to the 3rd. If you blow the onsight, perhaps brush off some moss while you recover :)
Crack and wall left then above and right of belay to arete. Up to belay. These are short pitches but keep them short.
Steep featured wall right past two bolts then up at the 3rd, then right to crack and belay.
A bit slopey to start, then up wall and arete past four bolts to great natural pro and the top. You might want a BD#4 cam to protect the last move.
The easiest route on the wall, but still a big day out. Double ropes essential for good rope management and gear placements! The route traverses a bit, but if you’d prefer to haul your gear there is a small BD haul bag in the big barrel and some 6mm tag line. Take a puffer jacket each and expect to be in the shade by 2pm. Double up on small wires to #5 then single up to #9. Double up on cams up to #4. Feel free to use my cams if you want. The crux pitch at 23 takes a lot of gear and is 32m long. All of the other pitches are shorter apart from pitch 2 at 35m. At the belay of pitch 5 below crux pitch you can rap directly down the wall 50m. Kick off the wall to make sure you swing in to the next anchor. The next rap is about 45m and the last 30m. It’s possible to retreat from pitch 9 by placing bit of gear on the way down but it’s better to top out and walk off. If you retreat from the top of pitch 6 then all you need to do is place a sling in a good chock stone in the wide part of the rack to make the next belay. This wall is steeper and more serious than Uprising. I’ve extensively cleaned the nut and cam placements and place bolts on the two steep pitches 9 and 11. It’s worth climbing the first 3 or four pitches to get to know the place before gunning for the whole route as the days are shorter. Enjoy!
Source: Jimmy Finlayson, Paul Rogers, Greg Jack