Straight out of lock down

Type: 
Rock
Description: 
Gear 12 x draws Single green c3 2 x sets nuts , 2 x cams red c3 – 3 and single #4 camalot. Maybe take triple .75 – 1 if linking pitches 3-4. ( not essential if your feeling solid at the grade ) The climb out of the water is very easy. Exit into the bush by climbing up past a bolt to a tree belay then walk out. You may want a rope on for the walk up to the track. It’s a bit exposed through the bush but we cut the track fairly well.
Reference: 
1
Pitch(es): 
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
1250mYes
 

Pitch one 20, 45m, move right off the single bolt belay. Up crack for 5m then move left to join the
nice crack line. ( do not go straight up the crack that splits the roof above as its loose) belay on
sloping ledge or link with pitch 2 and belay at the base of the pillar.
Pitches three -m four 23, 35m climb as a single pitch or belay on small sloping ledge mid height. At
the top of the crack move left past single bolt to double bolt belay on the edge of the prow. A wild
stance and an awesome pitch. Move five meters through bush to the base of the next pitch. Being
careful not to fall in the hole at the base of this pitch.
Pitch five 25, 17m, six bolts Stick clip or stand in sling off the belay bolt and pre clip the first bolt.
Crux is off the deck then the climbing eases to a small sting at the end of the pitch.
Pitch six 19, 10m Trad with one bolt. We un earthed this pitch from the jungle but it should clean up
well with some rain. Move up and left to a great stance and double bolt belay.
Pitch seven 24, 17m six bolts
Pitch eight 25, 35m the money pitch . This is the pitch of the climb. Amazing overhanging crack
climbing. Save a number 1 nut and .4 cam for the final moves.

Grade: 
25
Quality: 
0
Gone: 
0
Length: 
0m
Bolts: 
0
Natural pro: 
1
Attribution: 
https://alpineteam.co.nz/sites/default/files/Notes%20and%20topo.pdf
Ascent: 
Karl Merry Schimanski , Daniel Joll May 2020
Route Image: 
UUID: 
bd078d13-f4c7-4483-ac5b-9e2b2d2a5e6f