Mātuitui

Type: 
Rock
Description: 
A moderate grade summer rock climb on a buttress on the Homer Tunnel Bluffs (between Homer Sapiens and Tunnel of Love). Seven pitches (265m) of interesting climbing, well equipped with bolts, 40 minutes from the road. Single rack of cams (0.2 to 2), set of wires and 14 quickdraws. A single rope is fine with a few extenders. Descent. Walking off over Homer Ridge is recommended (short scramble from top of route to ridge and then down to saddle). The route can also be abseiled (eight 30-35m raps), need single 70m rope or doubles to rap. Stay right when rapping the top pitch to keep the rope out of the crack. Bolted with support from the NZAC bolting fund.
Pitch(es): 
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
11735m9Yes
 

Short face then move to arete feature.

21935m12No
 

Interesting climbing on the arete

32035m14No
 

Absorbing face climbing

41835m6Yes
 

Move left off belay then up easy ground to bolts.

To access pitch 5 walk 20m along grassy rib to base of short wall.

51655m3Yes
 

Follow crack up face and trend right past two bolts and up to rap anchor. Climb easy ground with some tussock up to base of headwall. [this pitch can be split in two using rap anchor]

61735m6Yes
 

Consistent face climbing with good gear

71535m4Yes
 

Climb right hand side of slab to top

Grade: 
17,19,20,18,16,17,15
Quality: 
0
Gone: 
0
Length: 
265m
Bolts: 
54
Natural pro: 
1
Ascent: 
Olivia Truax and Sam Waetford, November 2021
Route Image: 
UUID: 
9e16e294-25a1-4502-b3fc-58d399fe8e1e