Tutoko Knob

(1 route)

Tutoko Knob is the buttress at the western end of Alice Peak’s south west ridge. The 300m high South Face of Tutoko Knob is a long curtain of immaculate stone, rising straight from the Donne Glacier.

Type: 
Mountain
Altitude: 
1905m
Lat/Lon: 
-44.588026000000, 168.027391000000
NZMS260: 
D40 154 125
Topo50: 
CA09 053 508
Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Edit link
Yeah, Nah, Eh? 20 , 16 , 17 , 18 , 15 , 15
0
wire representing trad
6 pitches. Climb the right-hand of two prominent buttresses on the face. Starting from the big ledge at the bottom of the buttress. Climb up the front of the pillar, moving in from the right.
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
1200mYes
 6 pitches. Climb the right-hand of two prominent buttresses on the face. Starting from the big ledge at the bottom of the buttress. Climb up the front of the pillar, moving in from the right.
2160mYes
 To the top of the pillar and across on to the main wall.
3170mYes
 Continue up, veering slightly right through overlaps to belay below the steep headwall.
4180mYes
 Directly up the headwall. Steep climbing on superb jugs.
5150mYes
 The angle eases off, with short steep sections.
6150mYes
Richard Thomson, Richard Turner, Dave Vass, Feb 2002.
Attribution: 
Craig Jefferies