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The climb takes the left of two prominent ribs to the ridge north of the summit. Scramble up a small snow chute down-valley from the most prominent one. Veer left across tussock to the first rock slabs then climb a mixture of wet slabs and overhanging snow grass to a prominent shelf. Climb the snowfield to the foot of a left tending rib which leads to the second prominent shelf. Climb the first buttress (a mixture of aid and free climbing) to another snowfield then climb a second buttresses of poorer quality rock. Climb beside the third buttress of rotten rock exiting via a snow gully leading to the summit ridge.
Donne (South) Face
Colin Strang, Allan Soon, Mark Easton, David Ellis, Jan 1974.
Five days were spent on the first ascent, much of it in marginal weather. Legend has it that the climbers utilised their cutlery as pitons.