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Take a rising traverse up a series of rock ledges ‘til a long rock gully followed by a snow gully leads to the buttress on Madeline. Skirt around the Age Glacier keeping close to the rock ‘til Turner’s Pass is reached. The ridge from Turner’s Pass gives easy travel ‘til a 30m drop to the snow at the base of the South East Ridge. The first rock buttress, crux 13, leads to a snow slope and the second rock step. Move out left onto a large slab of rock and up to a snow ridge. The third step can be climbed directly, crux 14, or by skirting out to the left. Follow a long and often crevassed snow-slope to the summit.
This is a long route and may require a bivvy on the descent.
South East Ridge
Dick Irvin, Gerry Hall-Jones, Peter Robinson, Lloyd Warburton, 1956.