The Donne Face of Tutoko is commonly accessed from the Ngapunatoru Plateau either by helicopter or by ascending Grave’s Couloir.
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From the Donne Glacier climb an avalanche cone to a 60m rock band on the left leading to a snow shelf. Take the rock on the left of the couloir to the second step on the South East Ridge.
AJ Cooper, Peter Egglestone, Jan 1960.
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Access is directly up the snowfield above the col between Tutoko and Tutoko Knob. Start just down and left from the highest snow patch.
Richard Thomson, Richard Turner, Dave Vass, February 2002
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