2. NZ
  3. South Island
  4. Fiordland
  5. Darran Mountains
  6. Mt Tutoko
  7. Donne (East) Face

Donne (East) Face

(2 routes)

The Donne Face of Tutoko is commonly accessed from the Ngapunatoru Plateau either by helicopter or by ascending Grave’s Couloir.

Type: 
Face (Alpine)
Aspect: 
East
Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Link to edit content
Original Route
0
From the Donne Glacier climb an avalanche cone to a 60m rock band on the left leading to a snow shelf. Take the rock on the left of the couloir to the second step on the South East Ridge.
AJ Cooper, Peter Egglestone, Jan 1960.
2 Fee Fi Fo Fum 22 , 20 , 16 , 16 , 19 , 19 , 16
0
 wire representing trad
Access is directly up the snowfield above the col between Tutoko and Tutoko Knob. Start just down and left from the highest snow patch.
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
1220mYes
 

Climb the arête right of the big corner.

2200mYes
 

Quartz wall, moving right to arête.
3160mYes
 

Continue up arête.
4160mYes
 

Left of the big block, then climb crack left onto quartz wall.
5190mYes
 

Green corner past overhangs, then up flake system.
6190mYes
 

Wide crack through roof, then up the wall above.
7160mYes
 

From alcove, head up corner and wall to summit.
Richard Thomson, Richard Turner, Dave Vass, February 2002
Attribution: 
Craig Jefferies

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UUID: 
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