Nga Mokopuna

(3 routes)

Between Lindsays Ledges and the South Ridge is a pinnacled wall that is the match of the Statue Bro wall beyond the ledges.

Type: 
Face (Alpine)
Altitude: 
2073m
Aspect: 
West
Lat/Lon: 
-44.664394530000, 168.050157570000
NZMS260: 
D40 177 042
Topo50: 
CB09 076 424
Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Link to edit content
1 Kilroy Wuz Ere II 21 250m
0
wire representing trad
Climb the right side of the second-from-left pinnacle, up clean corner (pitch 3, crux) and then the red wall above, crossing the diagonal fissures.
Rich Thomson, Rich Turner, Dave Vass, January 2015
2 Brothers in Arms II 22 325m
3
wire representing trad
Continuous climbing, keeping just left of the huge corner and roof system at the right end of the wall.
James Spiers, Rich Turner, February 2015
3 21+ II 21 , 21 , 21 , 21 , , 300m
2.01
wire representing trad
Starting at base of the massive corner and roof system, left of Lindsay's Ledges. Descent: ridge to Karetai Col. At the dubious-looking drop-off point, either solo down slabs on the Te Puoho side, or go to the very end of this buttress and down to a 40m rap.
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
121II60mYes
 Up the main vegetated corner, deceptively steeply, to possible break R at 40m. Swing R and up rib to belay.
22140mYes
 Straight up steep wall above to easier ground and big diagonal corner up left to belay.
32145mYes
 Up and left steeply to black streak (obvious from ground). Up this to blocky belay.
42145mYes
 Up deviantly to roof (gear in roof to R). Left to pull through roof on same black streak. Steeply up till angle eases, trending left to L-R grassy diagonal. Hanging belay in diagonal or up corner on left and belay left of top.
560mYes
 Up the orange wall of dinner plates, to grey slab and up to belay.
650mYes
 Diagonal R to middle of steep slab, up this to top for some fun (pitch could be avoided by easier scramble up ridge above belay).
Rich Thomson, Rich Turner, 10 February 2016
UUID: 
c97c76e6-d632-40bf-8e09-c43747f76e3d