Nga Mokopuna

Reference

Title

Grade

Length

Quality

Bolts

Gone

Natural pro

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1

Kilroy Wuz Ere

II 21

250m

Climb the right side of the second-from-left pinnacle, up clean corner (pitch 3, crux) and then the red wall above, crossing the diagonal fissures.

Rich Thomson, Rich Turner, Dave Vass, January 2015

2

Brothers in Arms

II 22

325m

Continuous climbing, keeping just left of the huge corner and roof system at the right end of the wall.

James Spiers, Rich Turner, February 2015

3

21+

II 21 , 21 , 21 , 21 , ,

300m

Starting at base of the massive corner and roof system, left of Lindsay's Ledges. Descent: ridge to Karetai Col. At the dubious-looking drop-off point, either solo down slabs on the Te Puoho side, or go to the very end of this buttress and down to a 40m rap.

#	Ewbank	Alpine (Commitment)	Length	Trad
1	21	II	60m	Yes
	Up the main vegetated corner, deceptively steeply, to possible break R at 40m. Swing R and up rib to belay.
2	21		40m	Yes
	Straight up steep wall above to easier ground and big diagonal corner up left to belay.
3	21		45m	Yes
	Up and left steeply to black streak (obvious from ground). Up this to blocky belay.
4	21		45m	Yes
	Up deviantly to roof (gear in roof to R). Left to pull through roof on same black streak. Steeply up till angle eases, trending left to L-R grassy diagonal. Hanging belay in diagonal or up corner on left and belay left of top.
5			60m	Yes
	Up the orange wall of dinner plates, to grey slab and up to belay.
6			50m	Yes
	Diagonal R to middle of steep slab, up this to top for some fun (pitch could be avoided by easier scramble up ridge above belay).

Rich Thomson, Rich Turner, 10 February 2016

(3 routes)