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Starting from the snowfield above Black Lake. The lower pitches involve sustained grade 17 climbing. The notch along the ridge may require a rappel. A 300m climb on good rock.
Avoid the vegetated right-facing corner by going left and over bulge. Climb run-out face to groove that cuts across the face.
Nice climbing in an easy groove to belay on a broad ledge.
Hand traverse across horizontal crack in wall above ledge, then up face to easier ground on ridge proper.
There is a RH variant at the start that takes the RH facing corner crack just down from the snow arete.
17 , 17 , 12 , 17
Bill Blee, Ralph Miller, Mar 1957.