North East Face

(4 routes)

The North East Face is above Lake Turner. There is some good rock, especially at the northern end of the wall. There are four routes.
Descent is either by the snow couloir (Original Line), which can get quite broken later in summer, or via the gully at the north end of the wall (requires a couple of abseils).

Face (Alpine)
North East
-44.665722810000, 168.022155760000
D40 155 039
CB09 054 421
Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Link to edit content
1 Original Line 250m
Climb the couloir from the snowfield under the North East Face. The first ascent party accessed the face from the Tutoko Valley via Pakihaukea Pass.
John Findlay, Lindsay Stewart, Roland Rodda, Ian Whitehead, Easter 1940
2 Penney Uren 250m
Climb the buttress on the right (north) of the main couloir.
Phil Penney, Alan Uren
3 Turner Vass II 21 300m
Five pitches. The route starts to the left of an obvious left-slanting chimney crack. After the first pitch, cross the chimney crack on to the steep wall (crux), and continue straight up the red wall, finishing just north of Pt 2223m. Fantastic gear, great outing.
Rich Turner, Dave Vass, February 2001
4 Thomson Turner Vass II 20 300m
wire representing trad 1
Five to six pitches in the centre of the large shield of rock at the north end of the face.
Dave Vass, Rich Turner, Rich Thomson, February 2009
The Darran Mountains (NZAC: 2006) by Craig Jefferies