South Face

(2 routes)

The south face is steep and imposing, and in some places overhanging.

Face (Alpine)
Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Link to edit content
4 The Map of Draughts 23
wire representing trad
10 pitches. The climb starts at the pedestal at the bottom of a left-tending staircase flake then moves up and left to an overhang before straightening up for another six pitches. Exit just to the right of the summit.
Richard Turner, Dave Vass, Feb 2001.
5 East Ridge via South Face 19
wire representing trad
Five pitches to the ridge. 19, 14, 15, 16, 16. The route starts in the centre of an attached pillar on the right-hand end of the face. Climb the crack in middle of pillar (crux) to a comfortable belay on ledge. Traverse right into an open corner system then ascend three pitches on blocky rock to gain the East Ridge. 200m of grade 10-13 climbing along the ridge to summit.
Brigid Allan, Craig Jefferies, Keith Riley, Feb 2003.
Crtaig Jefferies