On first reaching Lake Marian head up directly to the Marian Bluffs. Climb a short scrubby wall right of a small gut, gaining the terraces above. Continue up the grassy slopes and ribs, tending left at the top to avoid rock walls. The travel on these bluffs is made easy by plentiful stout snowgrass. The snow slopes above give simple access to the East Ridge, which is gained well above the East Peak for a straightforward approach to the summit.
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Bill McLeod, 1980