Starting as for the Original west face route until the first cleft, moving into a broad gully where possible. The route trends left out of the gully at points to avoid steep ground but never strays from it entirely. At about half height traverse some bulges, committing moves left, before regaining the gully and summit. A long 1200m ice climb. Descend via the Original Route; note that this involves tricky route finding and unstable snow late in the afternoon. "For my level of fitness and understanding of the Darrans this route was probably pushing it a bit. Diving home I woke up hitting marker posts and had to sleep a few times. Looking back with a bit more knowledge I probably had trashed blood sugar levels and was a bit hypothermic.“ – Merv English.
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Merv English (solo), November 1976