|#||Ewbank||Alpine (Technical)||Alpine (Commitment)||Alpine (Mt Cook)||Aid||Water Ice||Mixed||Boulder (Hueco)||Length||Bolts||Trad|
Starting from the level section of central spur (the Sabre Marian gully central spur), traverse two sketchy pitches over to start of obvious buttress (pitons useful). Traversing to here avoids the hideously vegetated terrain below and takes you straight to the real climbing. Climb four pitches up buttress on good rock. Mixture of broken slabs and corners with cracks. Good gear. Rock gets better the higher you go (crux 18). Terrain then eases to scramble to summit. Originally accessed from Marian Peak.
Mike Buchanan, Ivor Koo. Feb 2013