Donne Face (South West Face)

(2 routes)

This dark face does not see many visitors. Long sustained climbing on rock that can be difficult to protect: pitons are still the protection of choice on this wall.

Face (Alpine)

Descents from the face are lengthy. Parties have opted to traverse Underwood descending the West Ridge but this is difficult and time consuming. Dropping down the Taoka Ice-fall may be an option when in condition, otherwise exit using one of the routes out of the Central Darrans.

Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Link to edit content
Riley Wigley 18
wire representing trad
18 pitches. Start from the high point on the glacier guarding the face. Climb straight up for 100m right of where the Taoka Icefall cuts back into the face. Tops out 200m below and west of the summit. Pitches are commonly grade 16-18 with healthy run-outs and protection which could be scrounged with a little imagination and digging.
Keith Riley, Rob Wigley, 2000.
Original Line 15
wire representing trad
30 pitches. Take the big right-facing corner at around one third height with a roof at the top. Pass the roof on the left wall, then traverse to centre of face and up to a couloir before gaining the summit. A steep face with some good free climbing. The party bivvied at the base of the wall 40m above the snowfield, and again at the summit.
Colin Dodge, Keith Lockwood, Jan 1974.
Craig Jefferies