|#||Ewbank||Alpine (Technical)||Alpine (Commitment)||Alpine (Mt Cook)||Aid||Water Ice||Mixed||Boulder (Hueco)||Length||Bolts||Trad|
Pitch 1: 27, weave up the streaked wall past two technical cruxes and finish out right on "Manu Ledge'
Pitch 2: 25, Left and up short groove to tricky crux. then WAY out left on jugs to pod, then back right on more jugs. Take lots of long runners. Belay on big slab two bolts
Pitch 3: 24, down right of belay start the spooky ramp moving back to the arete, finish with pumpy steep climbing to hanging belay.
Pitch 4: 26, move left on massive jug rail, then up and right on moslty good holds but poor feet. ( the original variation goes straight up the arete now an open project and/or an easy A0 variation)
Pitch 5: Left of belay climbs roof through shallow groove. Back right at the lip and then up on big jugs to Exceptional belay ledge....Pumpy
Pitch 6: Many difficult sections with good shakes in between lead to the coup de grâce, an overhanging prow right at the top of the wall. pumpy and full on.
Short pitch straight up to ledge. If walking off walk right and belay of tree once on flat ground.
Start at the Black fixed rope at sea level. Traverse under the first pitch of "Big Fish" and all the way right to the hanging bush ledge. two bolts mark the start of the route. Recommend clipping in as ledge is questionable and start of first pitch is hard. 6 draws, 6 extendable draws & 2 60m ropes. Great Rock, technical sequences and Outrageous exposure.
Bruce Dowrick, Jon Sedon & Llewellyn Murdoch May 2021