Gypsy Heart

Type: 
Rock
Description: 
Gypsy Heart is a new multipitch route in the Gertrude Valley on the Black Lake Wall (the Wall between first stream crossing and Black Lake, see photo). Access: From Homer hut carpark, follow the Gertrude Saddle Track for about 40min. Before the first stream crossing turn left and you will spot a bolt with the pink cord at the base of the route. Scramble up to the base of the route. Descent: recommended descent is to walk out to Black Lake (5 minutes). 10 metres above the last anchor there is an additional bolt with the pink cord. From here go by obvious contour line towards Gertrude Saddle/Black Lake. From Black Lake it takes about 20min to the base of the route via official track. It’s possible to abseil the route but it takes longer than walk out. If rappelling down, 2x60m ropes is a must. Abseil from anchor to anchor and watch out for the rope ends when abseiling the last two pitches. Anchors: 2 bolts with 1 maillon or ring. Gear: 14 quickdraws. The lower part of the wall gets sun between 10am – 2pm, upper part (from Ledge of Love) till 4pm. ...............................................Gypsy heart: Wind blowing to their faces, When they look to the west, Freedom spirit & passion to find new places, In the mountains, Where the love is at its best.....................
Pitch(es): 
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
11725m6No
 

slabby pitch

21845m9No
 

slabby pitch with a small featurous wall at the end

32140m13No
 

crux, endurance pitch with a surprise at the top

41250m6No
 

easy slab/scrambling

51825m7No
 

face climbing

61030m4No
 

grassy pitch. Scramble diagonally left past 4 bolts to Ledge of Love

71725m3No
 

From Ledge of Love scramble up to bolt with a pink cord and climb a small bulge

81740m7No
 

scramble right to the bolt and straight up

91720m4No
 

slab with easy boulder. 10m above the anchor there is an additional bolt with pink cord (recommend to finish here and chill next to the beautiful wee tarn)

Grade: 
17,18,21,12,18,10,17,17,17
Quality: 
2.01
Gone: 
0
Length: 
300m
Bolts: 
59
Natural pro: 
0
Ascent: 
FFA: Vlado Šuraba, Veronika Vlčeková, January 2023
Route Image: 
UUID: 
74f00cd4-453a-4294-9191-678d0d89ba3c