Rapaki

(28 routes)

A crag much beloved by beginning climbers, outdoor ed classes and scouts. Easy walk-on, walk-off access means the place is often crowded with top-ropers, though all routes are leadable on gear. Not as many classic routes as other port hills crags, but worth a visit if you can find a day when it's not too crowded.
Classic crag, especially for beginners.

Type: 
Crag
Altitude: 
400m
Aspect: 
West
Walk time: 
5min
Access: 

The Prominent crag at the top of the popular Rapaki walking track, with a car park at the base. Access by driving up Dyers Pass Road and turning left at the Sign of the Kiwi then following your nose for 5 mins.

Lat/Lon: 
-43.594079000000, 172.676139000000
NZMS260: 
M36 839 348
Topo50: 
BX24 739 732
Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Edit link
LE Left End 15 16m
0
wire representing trad
On Left side of crag. Up through face on left of crag.
LF Left Face 16 16m
0
wire representing trad
The face between the LH Arete and CN. Thought provoking pro.
CN Crows Nest 12 16m
1.02
wire representing trad
Start over the blocky slab and climb straight up into a hideaway scoop. Get Phsyced and move slightly left from the 'cave' then straight up to top out through jugs.
Fa Face Variation 17 16m
1.02
wire representing trad
The face/ slab to the right of CN.
B Barricoe 14 15m
0
wire representing trad
An easy lower section gives access to a short steep wall.
BC Bosun's Chair 16 15m
1.02
wire representing trad
Up Vauge Crack, around bulge to ledge. Use hand crack form ledge to top. Poor Pro!
Ra Ratlines 12 14m
2.01
wire representing trad
A steep crack with small but good holds leads to ledges, finish by trending up left. A harder direct finsh continues up from the top of a large flake.
Fc Fo'c's'le 14 18m
0
wire representing trad
Up rib to slanting roof. Step left, & bridge up past protruding block into corner. Finish up the prow or exit left.
Sy Scurvy 13 18m
1.02
wire representing trad
The Left Crack past nose. At small bulge below nose, go right to monkey poop, then left back to crack. Bridge past nose, move right and finish on the left hand of the two deep cracks.
MP Monkee Poop 13 18m
1.02
wire representing trad
Smooth rock near the bottom becomes more inviting under a small but prominent nose. Climb up one side or other of the nose, continue up either a narrow slab or an adjacent crack.
Blankety Blank 24
0
The Steep Wall, with no pro.
Tony Burnell '98
Banalarama 24 18m
0
2bolts wire representing trad
Steep and scaly wall 5m right of MP. Left side of large scoop below the overhangs, thin crack through roof to the right. Run out but pleasant enough.
Dave Fearnley 1988
PC Penile Decay 23 18m
1.02
2bolts wire representing trad
Right side of the scoop, past 2 bolts, over bulge and up overhanging headwall. Flaky rock.
Steve Elder '89
GG Galley Gulley 16 15m
1.02
wire representing trad
Climb up into the vee chimney, bridge and chimney to exit right onto the upper wall. Continue to the top. Good protection.
B2F The Bridge Too Far 22 16m
0
wire representing trad
Climb easily up into the groove, then bridge up to the roof. Continue bridging and exit with difficulty on to the top wall. Adequate protection.
John Howard '78
Sr Spinnaker 18 16m
0
wire representing trad
A few difficult, slabby (slimy?) moves (#1 wire and RPs for pro) to gain the scoop, then a few powerful moves to get out of it followed by easy climbing to the top. Adequate (but technical) pro.
Lindsay Main' 79
Whose Turn In The Barrell? 16 18m
0
wire representing trad
Irregular rib with a Bulge. Climb arete to ledge & finish as for Spinnaker.
Lindsay Main 1979
F Forecourse 15 18m
1.02
wire representing trad
Climb the corner at the left end of a ledge until the corner runs out. Ignore the easy finish off left, move up across a shallow hollow to the right. Continue straight up to the top.
MR Main Royale 17 18m
2.01
wire representing trad
Classic climb with good pro. Climb the face directly upwards, following the intermittent crack to the Rh facing corner, then exit L-wards onto ledge. Sound gear. and great climb despite the earthquake damage.
Ya Yardarm 18 18m
0
wire representing trad
The corner crack on the right hand side of the M.R wall. Can be pointed out because of the useless piton right at the start. Climb the corner for 5 metres with good pro. Once you reach the fractured new rock (Result of seismic activity) the gear runs out, the climbing gets harder and it gets quite spicy.
Strawberry Box 17
0
wire representing trad
Climb the corner, move right onto the wall, then move up with some difficulty to gain a niche. Continue up the easier top section
Graham Dingle 1971
Mn Mizzen 18 18m
1.02
wire representing trad
Climb the rib on small holds (hard, very poor pro). Then up and into the chimney. Climb the chimney on to the ledge, then easy climbing to the top out. Varied climbing. Good protection once you are in the chimney. An easier start more in keeping with the rest of the climb would be the jam crack on the left.
Brown Tongue 22 17m
0
The brown pillar right of Yardarm. No pro.
Tony Burnell '99
FW Freakey's Wall 22
1.02
wire representing trad 2
Climb the wall at the left of B & S ledge. Place gear in the cavity/hole before the crux at half height. Small run-out after that to good gear before trending right and up the faint crack. Good gear but some of it is far apart.
John Allen 1980
B&S Body and Soul 19 18m
1.02
wire representing trad 2 2
Start on the small foot ledge down and left. Work your way right then up to the bulbous ledge. Step left off the ledge and up through the overhang to the big hole, gain the crack and charge to the top. Good pro.
Gavin Wills 1967
DR Dr Rock and the Carbo Kid 20 16m
0
wire representing trad
Climb up the pillar beneath the roof. Follow the good pro.
Dave Macleod 1988
Bl Bilge 15 15m
0
wire representing trad
Thrutch up the chimney, or swing up with technique. A traverse to the left using a horizontal crack leads to an easier groove between the big overhang on the left and the block on the right.
FJ Flying Jib 14 17m
1.02
wire representing trad 1
Starts at a lower level, climb the steep wall and gain the groove. Climb up the crack moving right near the top. Good protection
Attribution: 
Information by Lindsay Main & Previously hosted on website by John Davis

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Comments

Hi Greg,
To back up cragrat -Rapaki is a trad crag and has always been so with lots of blocks at the top to set trad anchors( slings, wires, hexes etc ).
The remedial work has been done and its as safe as it ever will be for a Christchurch Crag !
There are some fantastic beginners climbs on the left end and although severly damaged by the earthquakes, in the middle - 'Main Royale' and 'Yardarm' are still really good climbs.
As with all crags pre earthquakes in Christchurch, its just a matter of checking those holds a little more than one would in the past.
Happy climbing !

I went to have a look today at this. All top anchors have been removed and there are no bolts that i could see unless i just missed them. Seems to be a lot of earthquake damage and does kinda look unsafeā€¦ shame really because it is just off the summit road.

Hi Greg
Not quite sure what you mean by "all top anchors have been removed" as Rapaki has never had fixed anchors and has very few routes. The crag has been remediated several times both by council funded rope access team working on a threat area above the northern access and experienced climbers. By all accounts from those climbing on it it's ok and just needs treating like an alpine crag but is generally pretty good.

Well Said.

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