The Left Wall

(3 routes)

This wall is a nondescript area of gullies and buttresses, with significant earthquake damage. Most of the obvious lines have been climbed even if they are not listed, so don't get too excited. Generally the rock quality is not that great and the climbs could do with a few hours brushing, but there is the odd gem such as Moonlight Buttress.

Type: 
Wall
Walk time: 
15 min
Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Edit link
Infinite Dress 16 ,16
0
wire representing trad
The obvious vegetated corner/gully. Start up the detached flake on the left and clip one of Joe's bolts to keep the rope clear. On up through the bulge on the left and pass the broadleaf tree. Fight the vege a bit and then easily up the upper corner. Step left low down to gain the anchor rings, or top out and scramble back down. Originally done as two pitches.
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
1160mYes
 The obvious vegetated corner/gully. Start up the detached flake on the left and clip one of Joe's bolts to keep the rope clear. On up through the bulge on the left and pass the broadleaf tree. Fight the vege a bit and then easily up the upper corner. Step left low down to gain the anchor rings, or top out and scramble back down. Originally done as two pitches.
2160mYes
 Just do it as one pitch.
Tony Billings, Craig Smith, 1998
Moonlight Buttress 15 ,15
0
wire representing trad 1
Excellent two-pitch route at a modest standard. First pitch up the short and dirty crack left of an overhanging arête with yellow lichen, to a large ledge with trees – anchor to one.
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
1150mYes
 Excellent two-pitch route at a modest standard. First pitch up the short and dirty crack left of an overhanging arête with yellow lichen, to a large ledge with trees – anchor to one.
2150mYes
 Directly up to a ledge above the anchor before moving right to the arête, then up past two bolts and some gear, with positions that are highly exposed for the grade. Anchor rings on the top will just get you down with a 60 metre rope in one abseil, but be wary of rope drag when pulling the rope.
Pete Sykes (P1) 1991
Bumblebeebum 17
0
wire representing trad
A wall with a gully with a large jammed chockstone on the left. Up the juggy bulge and the centre of the grey slab.
Alan Hill '97

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