Place info

Flax Wall

(15 routes)

This is a prominent south-facing wall in the middle of the area with many good climbs. There are a number of flax bushes along the base to help you to identify this wall.

  • South

    Aspect

  • 10 mins

    Walk in

New Zealand map
Type: 
Wall
Aspect: 
South

This is a prominent south-facing wall in the middle of the area with many good climbs. There are a number of flax bushes along the base to help you to identify this wall.

Walk time: 
10 mins
Reference Name Grade Quality Length Comments Actions
18
0
7X bolts
  Goes leftward below the armchair following a curving line of 7B. Crux is passing the first.

Joe Arts, 2010

17
0
Natural gear required
  Start as for Geckoblaster but move left past the bolt to the armchair (why not take a rest?), and then up the crack. The pro is good providing you have gear to fit the placements.

Damian Carroll, 1991

23
1.02
5X bolts
  Climb the wall right of AC directly up the line of staples.

Tony Burnell, 2016

22
2.01
3X bolts
Natural gear required
  The impressive wall with three bolts and natural pro at the top. The crux is moving past the first bolt on small crimps, after which the holds are bigger (easiest if you climb slightly to the right of the first two bolts).

Damian Carroll, 1991

20
1.02
3X bolts
Natural gear required
1
  The wall right of Geckoblaster, climb past 3 bolts, then move left to a good wire placement and up to the Geckoblaster belay. Alternatively finish straight up the steep headwall (23?). Grant Piper '97
19
1.02
1X bolts
Natural gear required
  Start at the left of the flaxes and scramble up easy walls and ledges to a small bulge with a bolt. Straight up through the roof (crux) with a small wire for pro to reasonable holds and good CD placement. Steep exit to the chains. Joe Arts '98
19
1.02
5X bolts
  Behind the flax, climb easily up the lower wall to a prominent hole, gain a standing position above the hole then go straight up through the bulges above.

Pam Yee, 2016

18
0
2X bolts
Natural gear required
  Start between the flaxes and climb easy ground to a bolt with links. Climb the thin crack (natural pro) on small but good holds and continue up the line above past another bolt to anchor chains on the left. Joe Arts '98
17
0
2X bolts
Natural gear required
  Start to the right of the flaxes and climb a vague crack line to a bolt on the left with chain links, which is shared with the next climb. Pull on to the ledge and clip a bolt with a hanger; climb to another ledge (crux) and through to the top with indifferent natural pro and a bolt on FTE. Lindsay Main '98
16
0
Natural gear required
  On the right side of the wall. Start among the flaxes up an obvious crack with grass. At mid height a diagonal ledge leads right, but step left and continue up the line over attached blocks to a single anchor bolt.
15
0
Natural gear required
  Make a few moves up PDBB, then move right about 1m above overhang to follow the vague groove on spaced protection. Up a short corner to gain the top, with a double staple anchor just right.

Pete Gresham, 2004

17
0
5X bolts
  Start above a small flax at the right edge of the wall. A low bolt protects the steep start. Move left and up past the second bolt and easier climbing on the grey rock following bolts rightward to the prow. 5B, staple anchors.

Joe Arts, 2010

19
0
5X bolts
  Climb the left wall of the corner to join the arete at the fourth bolt.

Tony Burnell, 2016.

17
0
Natural gear required
  An obvious corner-crack. Bridging with good gear although it runs out a bit at the top as the climbing eases. Belay up high, and then descend to the cliff edge and abseil from chains to the west.

Alan Hill, 2004.

23
0
4X bolts
  Starts under a large roof up a decomposing pillar forming the left arete of the roof. After the first bolt, the rock quality improves markedly. Traverse the lip gymnastically rightwards to the third bolt and a good incut pocket. Climb the bulging wall above on horizontal holds which vary from poor to good. Good breaks above and to the right lead to a single bolt lower off.

Tony Burnell, 1997

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