Flax Wall

(15 routes)

This is a prominent south-facing wall in the middle of the area with many good climbs. There are a number of flax bushes along the base to help you to identify this wall.

Type: 
Wall
Aspect: 
South
Walk time: 
10 mins
Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Edit link
Mostly Mischief 18
0
7bolts
Goes leftward below the armchair following a curving line of 7B. Crux is passing the first.
Joe Arts, 2010
Armchair Climber 17
0
wire representing trad
Start as for Geckoblaster but move left past the bolt to the armchair (why not take a rest?), and then up the crack. The pro is good providing you have gear to fit the placements.
Damian Carroll, 1991
Lazy Boy 23
1.02
5bolts
Climb the wall right of AC directly up the line of staples.
Tony Burnell, 2016
Geckoblaster 22
2.01
3bolts wire representing trad
The impressive wall with three bolts and natural pro at the top. The crux is moving past the first bolt on small crimps, after which the holds are bigger (easiest if you climb slightly to the right of the first two bolts).
Damian Carroll, 1991
The Man From Atlantis 20
1.02
3bolts wire representing trad 1
The wall right of Geckoblaster, climb past 3 bolts, then move left to a good wire placement and up to the Geckoblaster belay. Alternatively finish straight up the steep headwall (23?). Grant Piper '97
Extinct Snapper 19
1.02
1bolts wire representing trad
Start at the left of the flaxes and scramble up easy walls and ledges to a small bulge with a bolt. Straight up through the roof (crux) with a small wire for pro to reasonable holds and good CD placement. Steep exit to the chains. Joe Arts '98
The Fourth Aggregate 19
1.02
5bolts
Behind the flax, climb easily up the lower wall to a prominent hole, gain a standing position above the hole then go straight up through the bulges above.
Pam Yee, 2016
Fishing To Extinction 18
0
2bolts wire representing trad
Start between the flaxes and climb easy ground to a bolt with links. Climb the thin crack (natural pro) on small but good holds and continue up the line above past another bolt to anchor chains on the left. Joe Arts '98
Balancing Act 17
0
2bolts wire representing trad
Start to the right of the flaxes and climb a vague crack line to a bolt on the left with chain links, which is shared with the next climb. Pull on to the ledge and clip a bolt with a hanger; climb to another ledge (crux) and through to the top with indifferent natural pro and a bolt on FTE. Lindsay Main '98
Pebbles Does Bam Bam 16
0
wire representing trad
On the right side of the wall. Start among the flaxes up an obvious crack with grass. At mid height a diagonal ledge leads right, but step left and continue up the line over attached blocks to a single anchor bolt.
Exchanging Pleasantries 15
0
wire representing trad
Make a few moves up PDBB, then move right about 1m above overhang to follow the vague groove on spaced protection. Up a short corner to gain the top, with a double staple anchor just right.
Pete Gresham, 2004
Tiger In The Woods 17
0
5bolts
Start above a small flax at the right edge of the wall. A low bolt protects the steep start. Move left and up past the second bolt and easier climbing on the grey rock following bolts rightward to the prow. 5B, staple anchors.
Joe Arts, 2010
In The Groove 19
0
5bolts
Climb the left wall of the corner to join the arete at the fourth bolt.
Tony Burnell, 2016.
Quadratic Equation 17
0
wire representing trad
An obvious corner-crack. Bridging with good gear although it runs out a bit at the top as the climbing eases. Belay up high, and then descend to the cliff edge and abseil from chains to the west.
Alan Hill, 2004.
Lip Service 23
0
4bolts
Starts under a large roof up a decomposing pillar forming the left arete of the roof. After the first bolt, the rock quality improves markedly. Traverse the lip gymnastically rightwards to the third bolt and a good incut pocket. Climb the bulging wall above on horizontal holds which vary from poor to good. Good breaks above and to the right lead to a single bolt lower off.
Tony Burnell, 1997

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