Black Wall

(13 routes)

Not to be confused with "The Black Wall" crag further west. This is a large, ominous-looking wall in a recess, with great rock and some impressive routes (generally quite hard). Unfortunately it is the last area to dry, but is great in summer.

Type: 
Wall
Aspect: 
South
Walk time: 
10 mins
Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Link to edit content
Gin Rummy 17
0
wire representing trad
Just around the buttress, is this short thin crack marked by yellow lichen about 2m up. Tricky balance to get started in the scoop, then move right to climb the crack with wires and cams.
Craig Smith, 1997.
Peal 15
0
wire representing trad
Up the right-facing corner/arete using the crack. Anchor with small cams in the horizontal break.
Tony Billing, 1997.
Grumpy Jack 15
0
wire representing trad
An undercut left-facing corner with a bouldery start. Good natural protection. Finish left or right.
Tony Billing, 1997.
Exfoliating Miss Daisy 19
0
wire representing trad
About 8-10m left of Blackball. Boulder to a flaky hole 3m from the ground with protection in the hole. To the right, marked by a patch of yellow lichen, is a crucial wire placement to protect the moves to cam protection in a pocket. Then climb up to a ledge with a small bush. Finish up easier ground with wires and cams for anchors.
Tony Billing, 1997.
The Shuffle 17
0
wire representing trad
The major right-trending crack. Boulder start either direct up the corner or on the arĂȘte to the right. Climb the corner to the bulge and traverse 3m left and the anchor rings are right there.
Lindsay Main, 2004.
Black Ball 21
1.02
5bolts
Climbs the wall to the left of "Dark Star". Boulder problem start, over the roof past the first bolt, move up and the angle eases clip the second bolt up again third br. move left to where the wall steepens up this past two more BR to a lower off. Tony Burnell '97
Goliath 21
2.01
8bolts
The imposing corner groove, at 23 metres one of the longest climbs at the crag. Start under the roof by a patch of bright yellow lichen, move up & left past the first two staples to where a long reach will get you to an obvious horn.
Tony Burnell, 2016.
Black Hole 23
0
6bolts
Start as for Dark Star to just above the first bolt then move out left and follow the rounded overhanging arete, good holds where there needed, at the sixth bolt lower off or step right to DS belay. Tony Burnell '97
Dark Star 23
2.01
4bolts
A hanging groove with a crack at each side. Start on the left in a small corner below a roof and move into the black groove at the 2nd of four bolts (strenuous); bridge to the top.
Damian Carroll, 1991.
Dark Lands 23
1.02
5bolts
Takes the hanging groove right "Dark Star" Climb the wall with difficulty to the second bolt move slightly left into the groove proper, an ability to bridge helps, go straight up the groove to a single bolt lower off (in effect bolt No. 5) the climbing at the top is steeper but easy.
Tony Burnell, 1997
Schwarzkopf 24
0
2bolts wire representing trad
The yellow and black wall with 2B (rusty hangers) and cam placements to chains.
Athol Whimp, 1991.
Pulp Friction 22
0
1bolts wire representing trad
Technical climbing starting from the large boulder. Crux at bolt one to gain the large flake. Straight up the groove above past another bolt and pull over the jugs to an easy exit with natural protection. Place a high directional runner and traverse R to the Block and Decker chains
Marcus Thomas, 1995.
Block and Decker 23
0
4bolts
Start just left of a prow at a large block, with possibly insecure holds. Surmount the roof and enter the groove on the left. Gain a good hold on the right, bridge awkwardly up the groove and move right. Climb right of the bolt on the steep wall, then straight up to a large ledge and DBA.
Tony Burnell, 1997.

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UUID: 
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