Farm Park Crag

(83 routes)

Farm Park is one of the numerous outcrops of variable quality rock on the Lyttelton Harbour (south) side of the ridge which runs out to Godley Head from Evans Pass.
History
Climbed on back in the late 1970s, the crag didn't gain much attention until the more popular crags became worked out and the route baggers went looking for fresh ground. Some of the ground here is still a little fresh . . .
Climbing notes
Being south facing, the crag tends to be cooler and more prone to dampness than others. On hotter days this can be a good thing. Due to the low traffic volumes, some of the routes are less clean and stable than they might be: watch out for loose rock.

Because the crag is approached from the right, the sequence of routes can be confusing. The current attempt to deal with this divides the crag into smaller areas, and sequences the walls from right to left (the order you see them in), but the climbs from left to right. We'll see how that works.

The new wall designations are based on those used by Tony Burnell.

Type: 
Crag
Altitude: 
150m
Aspect: 
South
Walk time: 
5-10
Access: 

Drive along the Godley Head Road to where the track crosses the road at the last layby above Taylors Mistake. Park cross the road and fence by some boulders, watching out for concrete man-traps. A few tens of metres down the hill a crag will become apparent to the right (west).
Although the crag is approached from the right, descriptions are ordered from left to right.

View Black Wall and Farm Park crags in a larger map

Lat/Lon: 
-43.593804000000, 172.781421000000
NZMS260: 
N36 924 348
Topo50: 
BX24 824 732
File attachments: 

Places

Type Title Edit link
Wall Right Hand End (20 routes)
Wall Flax Wall (15 routes)
Wall Left of Cave (11 routes)
Wall Black Wall (13 routes)
Wall The Left Wall (3 routes)
Wall The Head Wall (8 routes)
Wall West Crag (13 routes)

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Comments

there are in excess of 100 climbs at FP both trad and bolted, when it's dry (which it currently isn't) its a great venue

Preliminary guide added in PDF format

There has been a load of rebolting at farm park so this information will need correcting.Missing a few routes at the right habnd end.