Just A Short Juan

Type: 
Rock
Pitch(es): 
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
1190m5No
 

10m to the left on The Little Big Rock is this short route. Face climbing to start, followed by steepening climbing on brittle edges.

Grade: 
19
Quality: 
1.02
Gone: 
0
Length: 
0m
Bolts: 
5
Natural pro: 
0
Ascent: 
Simon Courtois, 2001
Route Image: 
UUID: 
74d2cc31-373c-41ef-8d59-d4d162f57c50

Comments

I've added an image for this to show a couple of dodgy holds. Biscuit/rail that is the obvious clipping hold to the right of bolt 2 is cracked fully along its base and wouldn't take much to come off, can be avoided if careful but is then the convenient choice of foothold for clipping bolt 5. Large bulge to the left of bolt 5 - again the obvious option as a clipping hold - is extremely friable and was crumbling in my hand. This one isn't so easy to avoid, if climbing this route please take care and have your belayer be alert and wearing a helmet. Changed description to reflect it's 5 bolts, not 4.
Otherwise, very enjoyable and consistent climbing.

Maybe a bit of crowbar action??

I'm beginning to think that this climb may be too dangerous. Should I remove the climb? I'm the one that changed the bolts from 4 to 5. I suggest that I have the bolt hangers, and then other route setters can re bolt it more safely. I've done it twice now, if you want to make it safe, change it. Regards, Simon