Breeze Bay East

(18 routes)

Breeze Bay East is a pair of crags with probably the highest walls, including routes around 20m long. New crag rules apply:
just because it's there, doesn't mean it's solid
debris at the top is likely to be still loose
things are likely to be dirty still
don't remove vegetation unless you have to
watch out for geckos
Left Hand Crag
The left hand crag starts at the left end with a narrow bit of wall and a chimney. This is followed by a deceptively steep but well-textured wall with several cracks and a cavelet at the bottom. Right of this wall is a dirty crack and pinnacle, then a blank left-facing corner with a roof, and lastly, a short steep blank wall.
Right Hand Crag
The right hand crag starts with a steep blank wall with cracks/chimneys around it and a prow above. This is followed by an easier ramp of vegetated steps which leans right and ends left of a promentary high on the wall with cracks up both sides. Right of this, a steep stepped gully runs up left of a steep wall above a small cave. A groove and arete follow (belay bolt), then around the corner there is a large slab followed by a final roof and crack.

Type: 
Wall
Aspect: 
South
Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Edit link
Left Arete 10 4m
0
Left Hand Crag The left hand arete of the left crag provides a rather trivial bit of climbing which has to be noted for its unusual large hex placements on the wall. No other redeeming features.
Phil Stuart-Jones (solo) '97
Paté 20 7m
0
The large flaring chimney, which was full of loose blocks, at the left hand end of the crag. Natural pro. The grade is for the hard move topping out, the rest of the route is only around 12-14.
Joe Arts '96
Dirty Rotten Chicken Town 18 8m
0
The wall to the right of the big chimney. Uses the right edge of the chimney somewhat. One bolt.
Joe Arts '96
Radical Proteins 21 8m
0
The blank wall. Perform the strenuous moves past the bulge, then follow the crack left and up. Move back right past the second bolt to top out. Two bolts and other pro.
Joe Arts '96
Lame Duck 22 8m
0
The crack in the wall above the left end of the small cave. Technical start to vicious finger locks, then follow the crack most of the way to the top. One bolt and other pro (including a thread!).
Joe Arts '96
Tossed Salad 19 8m
0
The right-hand-most crack which curves in two planes. Short but surprisingly strenuous. A rack of CD's (1-3) will see you to the top.
Joe Arts '96
Lost Arrow 17 8m
0
The wall/pinnacle just right of TS. Use the edges but not the grass or make things more interesting and don't use the edges at all... Two bolts and a big sling for the top.
Joe Arts '96
Pin Pincher 19 8m
0
The black left-facing corner with a wide crack where the corner meets a roof. A technical start leads to awkward moves and jamming through the roof. One bolt, CDs and a rap chain.
Joe Arts '97
Evening Stroll 12 9m
0
Right Hand Crag. Up the arete swinging right low down. Up and left into the ferny groove then up the gully/chimney above. Good pro.
Phil Stuart-Jones (solo) '96
Updraught 15 9m
0
Start at the corner to the right of the blank wall below the prow. Follow the crack left under the prow then up the chimney. Sparse but adequate pro. Take large CDs.
Phil Stuart-Jones '96
Foxtrot 12 13m
0
The groove and chimney second right of the blank wall below the prow. Enter from the left trying to avoid disturbing the creeper. Get on top of the large block from the right then up the chimney with the hardest move near the top. Reasonable pro.
Phil Stuart-Jones (solo) '96
Eviction 8 14m
0
The ramp of vegetated steps leaning rightwards. Bridge up over the creeper using a convenient hold, then up the 'steps' and onto the ramp. Continue up through the contorted features above exiting just left of the bush lawyer. Reasonable pro.
Phil Stuart-Jones (solo) '96
Mustered Arms 17 12m
0
Head right up the steep ramp with tussocky start and poised blocks (long sling for the top block) then traverse left along the distinctive yellow balcony to a rest. A couple of steep moves take you up to the top right of the prow. Adequate pro.
Phil Stuart-Jones '97
Giant Slugs Ate My Fingers 16 13m
0
A fairly hideous safari experience up the stepped gully left of the small cave. Scramble over the ferns and up the corner. Bridge, mantle and squirm your way up to the ferny ledge then bridge up the final steep corner. Exit left or right, watching out for roosting owls in the holes under the top block. Poor pro. Take wires, small CDs, and a big CD for the small hole above the fernery.
Phil Stuart-Jones '97
Swing In, Spin Out 18 14m
0
Climb the bottom couple of moves of GSAMF. Traverse right at the obvious sharp ledge, then follow the (initially wide) crack up the left side of the steep wall. Veer right at the top to finish near the arete. Needs bolts.
Phil Stuart-Jones (top-rope) '96
Deception 18 14m
2.01
A very apt name for a quality route. The prominent steepening corner right of the small cave. Two bolts and other pro (wires and small CDs). Single bolt belay.
Phil Stuart-Jones '96
Neopolitan 19 14m
1.02
Named for its three flavours. Start below the prominent arete with the offwidth break. Gain this via gymnastics in the angled groove, or arete just to the left. Wander up the left hand edge of the slab veering right a little when it becomes tricky. Summit left up the bulging prow. Two bolts and other pro. Single bolt belay.
Phil Stuart-Jones '96
After Dark 14 10m
0
Up the corner with the tussock. Continue up the shallow crack in the black wall, going right under the roof and out the exit crack. Poor pro low down.
Phil Stuart-Jones (solo) '96

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