Middle Peak, South West Ridge

Type: 
Alpine
Pitch(es): 
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
120mNo
 

From the Havelock riverbed, reach Orb Col east of Veil Peak and follow the western slopes of
Helmet Peak. Finally, follow the north-west side of the South West Ridge on generally good
rock to the southern summit of Trireme.
Richard Studholme, Tom Morton, Peter Bain (during a traverse of all three peaks),
December 1966
Alternatively, head up Veil Stream and follow the Clover Glacier to the prominent col between
the middle peak and Helmet Peak.
An easier route may be to climb direct to Orb Col from the junction of Veil Stream and the
Havelock River. From the col, sidle Helmet Peak on the north and, depending on the conditions,
choose a route from the small glacier west of Trireme or follow the South West Ridge.

Grade: 
2
Quality: 
0
Gone: 
0
Length: 
0m
Bolts: 
0
Natural pro: 
0
Ascent: 
Barry Smith, Jim Wilson, John Harrison, David Stone, Tom Bates, Maurice Sheehan,
March 1959
UUID: 
080c8a60-ebce-45a4-9514-8b5ff76eed38