2. NZ
  3. South Island
  4. Canterbury Westland Alps
  5. Cloudy Peak Range
  6. Cloudy Pk
  7. Hourglass & Centre Walls
  8. Mission to Mercury

Mission to Mercury

Type: 
Rock
Description: 
A mixed bolted and trad climb that runs up the left side of the Hourglass Wall. Descent, 1 walk off, the ledge rightward to the scree around the base of the Hourglass wall. Or 2 Abseil the pitch 7 & 8; then pick up the pitch 5/ 6 change of The Whole 9 Yards, and straight down to the base of the Hourglass Wall.
Pitch(es): 
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
11235m1Yes
 

Start at 9Y carved in rock, go towards V to the Whole 9 Yards rap station and go left 10m to next belay/rap station.
21840m16Yes
 

Climb chimney to upper ledge
31836m7Yes
 

Continue up chimney, and move left onto wall after overlap. At ledge go left to next belay/rap station

42140m7Yes
 

Go up leftwards, then up left facing corner onto the wall, zag back rightwards, to right facing corner, zag left over feature to belay/rap station on the ledge

51640m4Yes
 

Climb ramp/ corner system to 4th bolt then go right at ledge to belay/rap station

61848m1Yes
 

Climb through overlap then up face, then onto scramble up corner/ ramp to belay/rap station on the left of corner

72258m10Yes
 

Up the wall above the rap station up steep, crispy wall, then through a series of walls and small ledges.
81855m11Yes
 

Up the right corner system to big ledge, options (A) go left around the overhang past 3 bolts, (B) go right at the big ledge, to easier ground, then back left to the top belay/rap station.
Grade: 
12,18,18,21,16,18,22,18
Quality: 
0
Gone: 
0
Length: 
352m
Bolts: 
57
Natural pro: 
1
Ascent: 
Anna Brooke, Grant Piper, Ed Machado, Jonathan Tye, ?/2022
Route Image: 
UUID: 
a1b3d184-7417-4c7f-8fb4-a8bdca3ceeb8

Comments

Submitted by swaetford on Sun, 06/03/2022 - 22:10

Updated description for p2 - has 16 bolts not 11. Easy to bump draws in a couple of spots or just use nuts so not necessary to take 16 draws.

Submitted by jazmorris on Thu, 21/04/2022 - 12:48

Climbed Easter 2022 - the 21 pitch is particularly good. Thanks to the developers for setting this and also for the straightforward rap line. Alternative option A on the last pitch is more than grade 18. Pitch 5 is likely easier than 16 and we missed the deviation on P6 involving the overlap - we just carried on up Mission Impossible ramp (easy scramble) as this seemed most obvious at the time