The Hourglass has Turned

Type: 
Rock
Description: 
Sustained climbing, spaced protection, immaculate rock. P1 - 50m (16) Start on right hand edge of overhangs. Up vegetated terrain to rib and onto face above. Traverse left to belay in second groove. Excavation of protection was required on this pitch. P2 - 45m (16) up groove to shallow right corner. Belayed below roof. P3 - 10m (10) Traversed left, belayed in the 'Hourglass Right' groove. P4 - 50m (19) Traverse right then straight up through roof. Heading right up shallow cracks which are fused and rounded higher up. P5 - 20m (19) Right hand side of shallow recessed corner P6 - 25m (17) Bridging up twin cracks then step right to corner and up to large ledge. P7 - 30m (18) The sneaky groove through the roof. Traverse left along ledge to an awkward belay on wall above. P8 - 50m (17) Traversing right following cracks, through a small corner chimney then up onto large ledge. Belay in top left corner P9 - 30m (15) Traverse right then up right leaning crack to scree slope. Walked off by traversing right.
Pitch(es): 
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
119300mYes
Grade: 
19
Quality: 
1.02
Gone: 
0
Length: 
300m
Bolts: 
0
Natural pro: 
1
Ascent: 
Michael Eatson, Tawny Wagstaff. March 2016.
Route Image: 
UUID: 
6bb26940-7ce6-440f-a496-cbe2a5dffea7