Monkey Puzzle

Type: 
Alpine
Description: 
Climb the right-hand buttress below the east shoulder of Mt Cran. The first pitch is steepish when climbed direct but can be bypassed on the right-hand side on much easier ground. Once above, the first ascent went up the centre of the buttress on mostly sound, juggy rock. Variations exist that may push the grade up.
Reference: 
D
Pitch(es): 
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
1124III250mNo
Grade: 
III 4 12
Quality: 
0
Gone: 
0
Length: 
250m
Bolts: 
0
Natural pro: 
0
Ascent: 
Bill McLeod, January 1995
Route Image: 
UUID: 
87c9140d-0b20-4ffc-bf58-9be05bae8d85

Comments

Climbing from the foot of the buttress is definitely steep direct. We went right, finding much easier ground (walking really) once above, we decided to climb the arete on the left hand side. This was harder climbing than grade 12 perhaps 14/15 but I am a relative novice and didn't find it too hard on lead. Rock was pretty good. However it started to get a little over hung so cut back inside where there was a short slabby section, before returning out to the arete on the left. We were taking too long so made our way out to the easier ground up the middle about 3/4 way up avoiding what looked like a really fun horn to climb. The rock was deteriorating the higher we got mind. All in all a really fun trip and a finish on the horn would probably be awesome!