The other route you always look at from camp! Approach by walking down Bush Stream for about 300m from the campsite and then climbing through the scree and scrub to the base. The obvious line bisecting the buttress. Pitch 1. Climbed in very thin conditions with detachable ice. Pitons and some natural gear required. Belay of natural pro/boulders above. Pitch 2 up and into the gully. Ice narrows towards the top. Quite thin ice. Belay under cave / roof above. Pitch 3 is straightforward to the top. Continue to climb to full rope length. The get off, walk above route to the first large prominent rock tower. Descend below tower on easy slopes to ramp leading down of shoulder. Beware of avalanche danger in this area.
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Mal Haskins, Brad Miller, August 2003