A really great line. Pitches 4 and 5 are able to be seen from the road. This route is a good indication of the condition of the rest of the valley. Access the main gully via The Portal. The route starts up on the right hand side. P1. A Series of short, rolling steps leads to a corner and curtain system. Climb the corner with great stemming. Look out for the overhanging mushrooms and chandeliers near the top. Belay on snow slope above. P2. Short step up to another snow slope. Climb either the ramp or the vertical curtain. Can be avoided by walking up the snow ramp to the right. P3. Up and into the ‘Grotto’. Another great pitch in a nice setting, belay of screws in corner. P4. A full 40 meters of vertical to near vertical ice. Look out for some overhanging technical ice near the top. Pitches 3, 4 could be combined out on the right – maybe WI6. P5. The pleasant flow above leading to the upper terrace of The Sunny Side. Rap off.
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Mal Haskins, Thomas Shaovitts, July 2003