Rear Slabs

(8 routes)

This is an obscure area of steep walls facing towards Peraki Valley, with a few climbs scattered about.

Type: 
Wall
Aspect: 
East
Access: 

About 200m down the ridge are the two crags comprising the Middle Walls. On arriving at the actual Gap with the gate at the crest of the track go past the Pinnacle and scramble up to the ridge from the right. Walk down the ridge through the gorse (which is low enough to not be too much trouble) and scramble down to the first crag.

Lat/Lon: 
-43.825000000000, 172.824010000000
NZMS260: 
N37 959 091
Topo50: 
BY24 858 475
Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Edit link
Chode 23 20m
0
2bolts wire representing trad
The short 45deg overhanging corner crack facing the approach gully to The Slabs. Scramble down past Karaka and Method Man to belay below the route. Tricky start gets you onto the easy face and past the two bolts. A high hand jam and some strenuous laybacking make up the crux, then it is back to some easy slab climbing up the very featured upper slab. Anchors shared with Karaka and MM. Technically, a hard 21, but potentially much harder as an onsight.
Gabriel Lincourt, 2008 (with rest)
Method Man 22 18m
0
4bolts
On the south-east side of the first large outcrop you come to on the way down the ridge (south-east) from the top of the red walls at the gap. Follow 4 bolts up the face, just left of an obvious left leaning hand crack.
Matt Squires, '05
Karaka 14 8m
0
wire representing trad
The very obvious short left-leaning hand crack just right of MM. Nice crack for gear and good holds. Anchor bolts are just above the dracophyllum bush.
Matt Squires, 2005
Critical Edge 16 7m
0
2bolts
Very short route up the face with two bolts. Pass the first bolt on the right; then straight up with a cruxy move at the second bolt. There is no convenient anchor, but there are gear placements down the back of the slot, and a usable boulder to the right.
Felix Collins, 2014
Chinese Rolex 21 25m
1.02
11bolts 4
It's the genuine Banks Peninsula experience. Find Darph Bobo's rap station and go 15m right to another rap station. Abseil over. Climb strarts 12m up technical slab past 5 bolts then follow rib up the featured headwall.
Grant Piper, Bernie Frankpitt 2018
Darph Bobo 21 22m
1.02
8bolts
This climb is by itself on a lower tier and is accessed by abseiling. From Karaka and Method Man scramble down the ridge for a few metres to an anchor, or go right about ten metres to the anchor for the route. Abseil to the big grassy ledge where the route starts (approx 25 metres). The anchors don't have rings, so it may be a good idea to take a separate rope for the abseil.
Gabriel Lincourt, 2007
Mussel Factory Girls 15 50m
0
wire representing trad
The first two climbs are on the Bottom Slab, much further down the ridge. This one climbs the slab with little protection. .
John Madgewick, 1991
Deceitful Doris Does the Dirty 19
0
wire representing trad
Obvious crack above and right of the abseil bolts of the previous route.
John Madgewick, 1991