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Across the Matukituki and slightly downstream from Wilson’s Camp there is a large avalanche gully which in winters of high snow fall deposits debris in the valley floor. This gully gives fast and unimpeded travel to above the bush line. There is a small waterfall at the bottom but this is easily negotiated on the true left on a deer trail. Most parties attempting this route have bivvied at 1600 metres, before crossing the ridge to gain the broad crevassed snowfields of the Rob Roy Glacier. These provide a staightforward route, on a rising traverse, to the high peak.
➠ Note. There may be a large schrund below the summit. The climb can take 10–11 hours from the valley floor and is a comfortable weekend trip from the Raspberry Flat carpark. The round trip from carpark to carpark taking in the High Peak-Low Peak traverse and down the Rob Roy stream has been accomplished during one long hot summers day.
The South Ridge and Rob Roy Glacier.
E Smith, M McClymont, C Benzoni, B Fullerton, G Palmer, D Divers, R Edwards, G Edwards & G Edwards, March 1935.